I've been taking the time to draw a lot more often before I paint. I
think it works out so much better for me. Why I ever think that
jumping right into painting before drawing anything will work out, I
don't know.
I just get impatient I guess. Anyway, here is a drawing I did, among others ( I posted the others on my drawing blog here
if you'd like to take a look) I began a painting of it, and left
the orange for last because I thought I might peel it for the painting.
I did peel it, and I put it into the painting peeled, but still need to
finish it.
Black and white drawing using an ivory black Derwent drawing pencil, and white conté stick.
I colored in my drawing with Nupastel pastel sticks.
I started my painting on a 5x7 in. board that had already had an old painting on it, and had been painted over.
THANK YOU so much for this post. I've been wanting to do the black & white drawing on toned paper and this is a perfect reason to get started. I always have to sketch first and do value studies if I'm going to have any chance for my oil painting to turn out. But I assumed you and other painters who I see as masters at painting don't have to bother with any efforts at measuring and accuracy -- they just start painting and whip up their masterpieces from sheer talent. Thank you so much for opening the curtains and showing the wizard at work behind the scenes. What a relief to know it's not magic but rather skill and practice and hard work that leads to success!!!!
ReplyDeleteJana, I always wanted to be able to paint like the artists I see on their youtube, and instruction videos...just start with a blank board and go to it, no wipe offs, no re- do s ...and like magic, a perfect little gem appears. Maybe after a few more years of painting, I'll be closer to that ability!
DeleteA question for you: How far away is your still life table from your easel. It looks like it's directly behind and to the right. I usually have mine on a cart on the left at an angle with a light shining on it since I don't have suitable natural lighting in the studio. Since it's at an angle off to the side it's not in line with my painting and so can't really do the "site-size" technique or capture both in a photo as you do. I'd love to hear any advice or suggestions you have on this subject. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks Jana, I move my set ups around from time to time, but they are pretty much always to the right (probably cause I'm left handed and my working arm won't block my view.) and a bit more than an arms length away, so I can stand up out of my chair, and reach forward to move things around. I don't have good natural light either, I have a floor lamp aimed at my set up.
DeleteThanks Debbie. I'm surprised to hear you use a lamp because your paintings always look like they are lit by north light . What kind of lightbulbs do you use? I've been experimenting with LED, fluorescent, incandescent, and halogen light.
ReplyDeletethe bulb I have is a compact fluorescent 23 watt 5000k. the 5000k is the best, nice clear cool light. lower numbers are more yellow and soft, better for bedroom lamps and things like that.
ReplyDeleteYou're wonderful. Thanks! I like 5000K too. My studio overhead lighting is all 5000K fluorescent. The bulb I was using to light still life was also 5000K but too bright -- a higher wattage and maybe too close. I'll try a 23 watt.
ReplyDelete